Whatever the occasion, whether it’s daily wear, to a sporadic client meeting or a once a year wedding, suits are designed to be smart; So you must be certain you get the proper fit to give the right impression.
That means it should hug right! A good suit should be snug on your shoulders, not slouch off them. Most guys think they’re a size larger than they are, so if you THINK you’re a 46 regular, why not try a 44…? When you pull on the jacket, there should be a firmness and sense of authority to it. The right suit will make you snap to attention and stand taller. If it doesn’t fit right in the shoulders, it’s not the one for you.
Just because you are ‘plus size’ (ie bigger than the usual shop mannequins), doesn’t mean you should drown your frame in something oversized to try and disguise it. As Gok tells the ladies, embrace your curves and keep to a comfort fit shirt, with a longer length jacket, and trousers with pockets to even out the width. Don’t be fooled into thinking you can hide behind a double-breasted jacket. This will only enhance any bulges with the excess material, and is best left for your younger, skinnier brothers, or the baddies in Bugsy Malone!
Dark colours are infinitely more flattering. You can shake up a look with a jazzy tie or shirt. If the occasion is less formal, a granddad collar is also acceptable, and will work wonders for your sartorial know how! Adding a pocket square will break up an expanse of fabric and detract from any unsightly bulges, and every tailored suit should show a bit of shirt cuff, which brings me on to another top tip! Don’t be afraid to get your sleeves taken in.. A baggy arm screams sloppy, which is never a good impression!
It’s also important not to neglect the back of the jacket…the vents showcase your confidence from behind! Double slits are infinitely more dandy-ish, but they also provide a bit more leverage if you are on the bulky bottom side; However, the one vent jacket is a cleaner line and is much more unobtrusive, so work out where you’re most conscious (tum or bum) and focus on that.
You might also consider a waistcoat. It’s the ultimate manly garment and can work wonders in hiding a paunch. Make sure you keep it done up, or the office Christmas party after one too many springs to mind!
Choosing shoes to finish off the look is as important as the fit of the suit. I highly recommend a sturdy brogue with a solid shoe, which anchors your weight and looks like you mean business.
Above all, stand tall! Enjoy the power of the suit, and experiment with different ties, shirts and pocket squares. One good suit can fit a multitude of purposes!
